“Though ortolan hunting has been banned in France since 1999, it has experienced something of a boom, as the local authorities in Landes turn a blind eye to the old custom.

“Up to 50,000 ortolans are thought to be killed each year by 1,500 poachers. Those arrested are liable for a £4,000 fine but, more often than not, they’re given only a verbal warning.”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Smi_AdvISJ8